Mt. Yufu (由布岳)

Mt. Yufu is a massive volcano towering over the idyllic hot spring town of Yufuin. The views from the summit are impressive on the rare day when the cloud isn’t in.

The hike: After exiting the bus, turn left and walk along the road a few meters, and you’ll see the entrance to the trail on your right. The first part is a vast meadow with views of Mt. Yufu towering above. There are several trails in this area. Take whichever you like, but make sure you head towards the forest under Mt. Yufu and not up the bald conical peak to your left. You should reach the edge of the forest in about 10 minutes or so. There’s a trail branching off to the right, but ignore this trail and head straight ahead. The woods are quite beautiful and surprisingly quiet, and the path meanders a bit before shooting off towards the left and up to the ridge line. At the junction, you’ll find a couple of places to sit down. This junction is marked on the maps as 合野越, but I don’t recall any signposts indicating this name. Take a breather because the real climb is about to begin. Take the trail to the right, where you’ll soon start the first of many switchbacks. How many, you ask? Well, I basically stopped counting after 40! The route is well-trodden and impossible to get lost as long as you follow the switchbacks. The views will gradually start to open up as you climb higher above the valley. In no time you’ll have a view directly down into the grassy crater of Mt. Iimorigajou, with the town of Yufuin beyond that. As you reach the saddle below the peak, the switchbacks become shorter and steeper, with the last few meters up a series of large steps built to keep erosion at bay. Once at the junction, you have two options. You can either turn right and climb to the summit of Higashi-mine (東峰) or turn left for the treacherous ascent of Nishi-mine (西峰), the higher of the two. If you have any fear or heights or no confidence using metal chains, then I recommend opting for the safety of Higashi-mine. Otherwise, turn left at the junction. Immediately after climbing, you’ll reach your first set of chains. If the cloud is in, then it could easily be mistaken for one of the trickier sections of the Japan Alps. There’s a fair amount of up-and-down between here and the summit, so follow the paint marks, chains, and crowds if there are any. After around 15 minutes you’ll reach the summit of Nishi-mine, where the views are supposedly spectacular. I spent the entire climb in the clouds, so hopefully you’ll be luckier that I was. If you’ve got time, then you can actually do an entire loop of the crater, taking in Higashi-mine before descending back down to the saddle. Just continue on the path you haven’t taken from the summit. The maps recommend one hour for the loop, but I wouldn’t recommend doing it if visibility is poor. If you’re short on time, then simply retrace your steps back through the danger zone of the chains and back down to the saddle. Descend down the same switchbacks you used to climb the mountain, and amuse yourself by trying to determine the precise number of switchbacks. Once you’re back at the junction of 合野越, instead of turning left to head back to the parking lot where you started, take the faint, overgrown straight ahead that leads towards Iimorigajou (飯盛ヶ城). Follow the path for about 50 meters before reaching a rather large clearing. This is actually an old forest road, and you’ll see an unmarked and incredibly steep trail directly in front of you that leads to the summit of Iimorigajou. It only takes about 5 minutes to reach the summit, and the views are totally worth it. With all of the lush greenery, it’s a splendid place to take a break and admire both the view of Yufuin and of the towering volcano you just finished climbing. After admiring the views, retrace your steps back to the forest road and turn left. After a few minutes of descending, you’ll see a white sign that says 湯布院町に至る、西登山道、岳本. The trail branches off towards the left and, honestly speaking, is a bit difficult to follow. Scattered throughout the grasslands are red signs reading 西登山道 and the grass is greatly overgrown. If you’re not up for the adventure, then never fear, because if you stay on the forest road then it’ll lead you to the junction. Whichever route you decide to take, once the trail intersects the forest road again, you’ll see a path heading into a cedar forest with a signpost marked for Takemoto (岳本). Follow the path through the forest and watch out for spider webs. Eventually, the path will end behind a series of greenhouses. Turn right when you hit the paved road and then a left at the first junction and you’ll descend to a larger road with a Lawson convenience store. Walk over to the Lawson and take the road next to it that descends towards the town of Yufuin. Take your first left and you’ll arrive at a small lake and the wonderful thatched-roof bath of 下ん湯. Drop 200 yen in the honesty box and enjoy the angelic hot-spring waters. After a soak, you can walk through the touristy town back to the station in about 25 minutes.

When to go: This hike can be done year round if you bring crampons and an ice axe in the winter. The final climb to Nishi-dake should not be attempted in icy conditions. November is the best time to see the autumn colors.

Access: From Yufuin bus center, there are regular buses to Beppu that stop at Yufuin Tozanguchi (由布岳登山口). The bus takes about 15 minutes and costs 360 yen. Yufuin bus center is about 20 meters east of JR Yufuin (由布院) station. Go out the main exit and walk down the main street running perpendicular to the station. The bus center is on your left. Click here for the bus schedule.

Map: Click here

Live web cam: Click here and select ライブカメラ

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 (elevation change 813m).

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28 Comments on “Mt. Yufu (由布岳)”

  1. Ben Says:

    Some very nice photos of the hike there Wes! Looks like you caught the mountain in good weather. I would have to say that this is one of my favorite places to hike in Kyushu during the spring.

    • wes Says:

      thanks Ben. I had pretty good weather despite a rain storm just after I entered the forest. The summit was covered in cloud but I had nice views on the way down.

      Cheers for the spring recommendation. I’m sure the hike is interesting all year round. I was really impressed with Yufuin. A thousand times more scenic than neighboring Beppu

  2. Kaeru Says:

    I attempted to climb Mt. Yufuin with my then fiance. Half-way (or should I say 3/5th of the way) we saw a snake! Boy was the decent much faster than our ascent!

    Do you really think Yufuin is more scenic than Beppu? I haven’t been to Beppu and I really enjoyed the town in Yufuin. If what you say is true, I should make another trip to Yufuin instead of Beppu!

    • wes Says:

      Kaeru,

      The problem I find with Beppu is that everything is so spread out and the entire city is one giant concrete monstrosity. The jigoku are worth a visit, as well as the sex museum, but overall I think you’d find another trip to Yufuin more relaxing.

      Wes

  3. cumfy Says:

    Seems very handily located for Fukuoka trains.
    Journey time <2hrs

  4. Ivano Canteri Says:

    Hi there! I am due to Kyushu next week for some business but I would like to attempt Mt. Yufu either on Sunday or Saturday. Unfortunately, the link to the map of the area is not anymore available. Does anybody can suggest an alternative link? Also, how long could it take more or less to reach the top of Higashi-mine? DO you think end of November would still be a reasonsable time for the hike? Thanks a lot to everybody. Have a good day

    • wes Says:

      Ivano,

      hanks for checking out the site and for the comment. I’ve updated the link for the map, so you can find a new one if you click on it.

      It should take about 2 hours to the top if you keep a steady pace – longer if you’re out of shape or a slow hiker.

      November is an excellent time to hiking the mountain (aside from the seasonal rains)

      • Ivano Canteri Says:

        Thanks a lot for your prompt response! Fine, two hours would be great. I’ll just have to check transports from Fukuoka but it seems pretty easy to do (if your can find your direction in a Japanese timetable :-). Then Mt, Yufu seems ideal for one day off trip included. SInce I will have to bring not much luggage on the plane do you believe low hiking shoes will do or high ankle ones are needed?

      • wes Says:

        The top is a rock scramble, so high ankle shoes might be better. However, people do climb the mountain in low ankle trail runner as well. It just depends on how strong your ankles are and on your experience.

  5. マーカス Says:

    Hi!
    Just hiked it yesterday and upon Nov 2015 all the information seems still correct. Thanks very much for the awesome onsen tip at the end .. I have been many times at the lake but never new that there is a tiny onsen (which is actually quite nice)

    Some remarks:
    – The way down to Yufuin is now very well marked with some neon pinkish ribbons, so very easy to find and not an adventure at all. It was actually very nice since there were hardly any people (compared to the dozens on the main trail). The trail is also very scenic, totally recommended!
    – Go early! Big (guided) groups are starting around 9, so to enjoy more privacy, you should leave between 7 and 8.
    – The way around the crater is nice, but involves some climbing. Especially on the ridge at the back it might be difficult in case of rain and slippery rocks. If you had any hesitations while doing the chain part, you probably should not do the loop around the crater.
    – If you come by bus from Beppu, there are two lines you can use, one departs from Kitahama (upper time table on the link above) or you can start from the West exit of Beppu station (lower table). I recommend Beppu station, there are more buses, they go earlier and it is easier to find the bus stop. Bus fee is 700 yen Beppu Station -> Yufu Tozanguchi and 900 yen Yufuin Station -> Beppu Station
    – The onsen at the end is a mixed one

    Thanks for the nice description!-)

    • wes Says:

      Thanks for the update! Glad to see my trail description is still up-to-date, and glad to see you found the lakeside onsen as well

  6. マーカス Says:

    Just hiked it yesterday and upon Nov 2015 all the information seems still correct. Thanks very much for the awesome onsen tip at the end .. I have been many times at the lake but never new that there is a tiny onsen (which is actually quite nice)

    Some remarks:
    – The way down to Yufuin is now very well marked with some neon pinkish ribbons, so very easy to find and not an adventure at all. It was actually very nice since there were hardly any people (compared to the dozens on the main trail). The trail is also very scenic, totally recommended!
    – Go early! Big (guided) groups are starting around 9, so to enjoy more privacy, you should leave between 7 and 8.
    – The way around the crater is nice, but involves some climbing. Especially on the ridge at the back it might be difficult in case of rain and slippery rocks. If you had any hesitations while doing the chain part, you probably should not do the loop around the crater.
    – If you come by bus from Beppu, there are two lines you can use, one departs from Kitahama (upper time table on the link above) or you can start from the West exit of Beppu station (lower table). I recommend Beppu station, there are more buses, they go earlier and it is easier to find the bus stop. Bus fee is 700 yen Beppu Station -> Yufu Tozanguchi and 900 yen Yufuin Station -> Beppu Station
    – The onsen at the end is a mixed one

    Thanks for the nice description! :-)

  7. Ivano Canteri Says:

    Dear all, I finally did it on November 29th. The trail was pretty good although a bit slippery due to iced ground first and then some muddy terrain. The way to the top was pretty clean and pretty well marked. Some boulders in the path are a bit annoying especially when wet and, in same case, could have been easily avoided by diverting the track fo a few yards. Wes’ description was extremely accurate. I have avoided the loop around the crater since the view from Higashi-mine was such to stole away all my allowed time – and the up and down is not very interesting. A bit of Sunday “traffic” but starting at 8 am ensured reasonable going. A bit packed on the chains (a few climbers not pretty prepared to do them and more prone to laughing and teasing each other than looking at the way up). Very beautiful descent in the bamboo grass prairie and also the cedar woods were pretty fascinating (by the way, met nobody on the track down to Yufuin). For unknown reasons I was told at the tourist desk in town that the track was somehow dangerous and not accessible. Which, on the contrary, was not. The new clearly visible pink ribbons mark the way down very easily and, once in the wood you only have to follow tha path although many fallen trees and dislodged logs force you to take small detours around them (maybe that was the reason for the warning). Absolutely not to miss the public onsen by the lake: I spent half an hour or more lingering in the warm water, nobody in the place, I had it all to myself, even if I had to dry me up with a spare T-shirt and a pair of clean socks! (I wasn’t prepared to the frugal magnificence of the place supposing just to have room and time to wet my feet, but I couldn’t resist a full bath!). See you all next time! Ivano

  8. Morten Sylvest Olsen Says:

    Did this hike the 11th of November 2015. Even though we didn’t start particularly early, the mountain didn’t seem crowded, there were only a few cars at the trailhead where we parked. At the edge of the forest we took the path to the right which the description above says to ignore. It was well marked with pink ribbons, and quite a nice approach to the summit, as it was much less eroded, it seems most people go for the direct route. The last part up to the summit of Higashi-mine had some chain parts, but nothing really exposed or particularly scary, not going up at least.

  9. Ganesh Says:

    Iam planning to go for a hike and stay there for a night in my tent. Is there any rules and regulations for camping at any places around the trial?

    • Ivano Canteri Says:

      Ganesh, I can’t tell you about the limitations to camping. I did Mt. Yufu it last year in November and I do not recall any interdiction. However, you have to consider that it would be difficult to camp on the second half of the ascent if this is your plan. The terrain as well as the bush and the bamboo grass largely limit the availability of space and a comfortable stay. Better to remain on the lower half (most likely, the lower fourth!). A nice part is the path from Yufuin which runs through nice woods although those too steep and rocky at times ending into a commercial forestry operation (not a quiet place during weekdays). So, my suggestion is to consult the maps accurately and ask the locals at Yufuin before leaving. If I were you, I would camp on the hill facing the Mount on the other side of the main road (facing the bus stop and the parking) where I spot some tents and people last year (I have a map which I can send you)
      PS innocuous but pretty large snakes are told to be a frequent sight in the woods leading to the top – I didn’t see one, but if you are camping there take this into account.
      Ciao!

  10. biggie Says:

    Hi, I’ve some question. How long dose it take me to come back from top of the mountain to the onzen which you mention?

  11. James "Face" Hampton Says:

    Hello All, Just back from Yufuin and Yufu mountain. The climb was great June 30, 2018, but the weather was not! Morning rain delayed our start and we made it to the wooded area before the rain and clouds came again, and they were with us through the remaining climb and descent. Visibility at the summit was about 2 to 4 meters, and the last scramble was quite wet and slippery on both sides. The winds were very strong as well easily 40+ MPH, saw one person almost get blown away! We did not attempt the traverse across the crater as the rocks were too wet and in some areas like little creeks (ie slippery) and the wind. Trail runners worked fine, and my wife did it with normal cross trainers (not advisable but possible). The tourist office is still saying several of the trails are closed and I did not read these comments to enjoy the lake or onsen on our return to Yufuin (darn!), so we started and ended at the trail head on the highway. Bus schedule makes for easy access from either Beppu or Yufuin. This was a great experience and one we will do again for sure, as we hate to miss the view. I was wondering if anyone has done a hike from Beppu to Yufu mountain, for that matter any longer hikes in the area. This is a great site, wish I found it earlier! Any questions please feel free to ask! Happy Trails!

  12. Sue Tiller Says:

    We would like to spend a nights hiking from onsen to onsen (we are experienced walkers) starting from Beppu and maybe finishing there as well. Can you give us any ideas. I thought Beppu then Yufin what would be good to do after that. Thanks for your help!

    • James "Face" Hampton Says:

      Hi Sue, That is a possible hike as there are trails that go from Beppu to Yufuin. Maybe some of the more experienced hikers here can give you more information as to the trails, etc. When we asked for information in Yufin at the tourist center they had a map and some information. But it turns out not all of that information was correct. I am not sure if any accurate information can be found in Beppu. I hope you do this trek, and then post details, as I also want to do this in the not too distant future! I will post should I do as well! Good Luck.

  13. Sue Tiller Says:

    Sorry that should read 5 nights!!

  14. Sue Tiller Says:

    Hi James Thanks for the info. I will certainly post details of our hikes if it works out!

  15. kyotoben Says:

    I did the hike in early December 2021. There was already snow and ice on the top. As described in the post, the way to the nishi-mine is insanely steep with quite some tough iron chain sections. When I visited, it was very cold with strong icy winds, very slippery and absolutely no grip on the chains whatsoever. The nishi-mine should only be attempted by experienced climbers and those not afraid of heights. Also, as pointed out in another comment, when circling the crater, there are also some tricky areas on the back-side not suited for beginners. Just aiming for higashi-mine should be fine for most casual hikers though.

  16. utz Says:

    The mention of spider webs made me wary. Are they really directly on the path you walk on or just to the side?

    I have been to forests and mountains in Japan before and have seen some nasty big spiders in their webs, but they were always on the side of the path so there was no risk of hitting them.

    • wes Says:

      Spiders are mostly an issue in the autumn (September to November) when they are most active. If you’re on a seldom-used path or are the first one up in the morning then you will run into spider webs, and there are a lot crossing hiking trails in Japan. Hike with a stick in front of you, swiping frequently so you don’t break the spider web with your face!


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